Sunday, April 18, 2010

Pillnitz, or fairy land...


In my effort to see more of the area, I decided to try nearby Pillnitz, which I heard was lovely. And it did not disappoint! Not only was the weather perfection today (sunny, 65), but after just a 20 minute tram ride, I arrived on the water's edge, a ferry ride away from Pillnitz. On my first excursion to this side of the river, I noted that there are loads of cute houses, cyclists, small Biergartens, as well as a grassy riverbank to tempt you to while away the hours... I crossed the ferry into Pillnitz, which was just as green and lovely. First on my itinerary was the Carl Maria von Weber museum (those not in the know, opera composer of the early 19th c). His house is tucked up on a hill among other lovely homes, stone streets, and just gorgeousness! The home has a small garden and is a sunny yellow, which sort of contrasts with some of the dark themes of Weber's music (Der Freischutz isn't exactly a bedtime story). I was greeted by a lovely German woman who spoke no English. 3€ was my entry fee and she took me upstairs where she showed me Weber's piano! Then she took me into a study that had all sorts of his letters, bits of scores (did anyone know they had to write out staffs? I don't know why I hadn't realized this previously. I thought writing the notes themselves were tedious enough...), and pictures of him and his family. She also showed me a notebook that someone (herself?) had painstakingly transcribed every letter of his. This must have been a difficult process as the letters were not at all decipherable from my point of view, even putting my lack of German knowledge aside. I was, however, able to communicate with her and understood a little less than half of what she explained to me. Then she asked if I would like her to play some Weber while I perused the library? Why, of course! After leaving me to my own devices for a while, she took me back downstairs and showed me where they have mini concerts! I couldn't resist the beautiful grand piano and the ironically posted portraits of Weber and Wagner (who, if I remembered correctly, hated each other) so I asked whether she'd mind if I sang something... so off I went! Much to her delight apparently, and if I understood, I think she wants me to invite her if I end up performing anywhere in the area... but it was certainly a nice moment to pay homage, if you will, to a very important composer.
Next, I meandered my way on down to the castle. Tons of people were milling about or riding bikes. This atmosphere would be a vacation to most Americans. Let me enlighten you--this is their weekend wind down! We could learn a thing or two...
Anyway, I decided not to go into the castle today, because the weather was so fine. Instead, I wandered around the grounds, admiring flowers, ate an ice cream, sat by the water... and then wandered my way along the banks of the Elbe back to the Ferry.
Then I had a cheap beer at a Biergarten that sits on the Elbe before making my way back to my apartment...
What a great afternoon!

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