Pillnitz, or fairy land...

In my effort to see more of the area, I decided to try nearby Pillnitz, which I heard was lovely. And it did not disappoint! Not only was the weather perfection today (sunny, 65), but after just a 20 minute tram ride, I arrived on the water's edge, a ferry ride away from Pillnitz. On my first excursion to this side of the river, I noted that there are loads of cute houses, cyclists, small Biergartens, as well as a grassy riverbank to tempt you to while away the hours... I crossed the ferry into Pillnitz, which was just as green and lovely. First on my itinerary was the Carl Maria von Weber museum (those not in the know, opera composer of the early 19th c). His house is tucked up on a hill among other lovely homes, stone streets, and just gorgeousness! The home has a small garden and is a sunny yellow, which sort of contrasts with some of the dark themes of Weber's music (Der Freischutz isn't exactly a bedtime story). I was greeted by a lovely German woman who spoke no English. 3€ was my entry fee and she took me upstairs where she showed me Weber's piano! Then she took me into a study that had all sorts of his letters, bits of scores (did anyone know they had to write out staffs? I don't know why I hadn't realized this previously. I thought writing the notes themselves were tedious enough...), and pictures of him and his family. She also showed me a notebook that someone (herself?) had painstakingly transcribed every letter of his. This must have been a difficult process as the letters were not at all decipherable from my point of view, even putting my lack of German knowledge aside. I was, however, able to communicate with her and understood a little less than half of what she explained to me. Then she asked if I would like her to play some Weber while I perused the library? Why, of course! After leaving me to my own devices for a while, she took me back downstairs and showed me where they have mini concerts! I couldn't resist the beautiful grand piano and the ironically posted portraits of Weber and Wagner (who, if I remembered correctly, hated each other) so I asked whether she'd mind if I sang something... so off I went! Much to her delight apparently, and if I understood, I think she wants me to invite her if I end up performing anywhere in the area... but it was certainly a nice moment to pay homage, if you will, to a very important composer.
Next, I meandered my way on down to the castle. Tons of people were milling about or riding bikes. This atmosphere would be a vacation to most Americans. Let me enlighten you--this is their weekend wind down! We could learn a thing or two...
Anyway, I decided not to go into the castle today, because the weather was so fine. Instead, I wandered around the grounds, admiring flowers, ate an ice cream, sat by the water... and then wandered my way along the banks of the Elbe back to the Ferry.
Then I had a cheap beer at a Biergarten that sits on the Elbe before making my way back to my apartment...
What a great afternoon!

Meissen

I took my first trip out of Dresden today, to the nearby city of Meissen! This well-preserved medieval city is only 30 minutes from Dresden by train, 11€ round trip. This city also lies on the Elbe, which like Dresden, separates the Altstadt (old town) from the Neustadt (new town). Unlike Dresden, the Altstadt was never bombed, although a large part of the castle here seems to have been recently reconstructed. I guess I'll have to look up the history to be sure. Another indication that this city was probably untouched during the war is the bridge that links the two sides of the city which has a crest on it marked 1933-1934, which I would assume would have been destroyed in WWII if the city had been attacked... Anyway, this lovely town is full of winding streets, steep hills, tiny gardens, and quaint restaurants and shops. The old feel of the town makes you believe you are in a fairy tale. The castle and Dom (an important church, headed by a bishop, from what I can tell) sit side by side on a huge hill. Construction was going on in and beside the castle, but the visit inside is well worth the 5€ (or 2,50€ as a student). The church is beautiful and large, with many naves and medieval passageways. The inside is well-preserved, with the same glowing colors of the Frauenkirche, which helps me imagine what the original Frauenkirche looked like. Inside the castle, the main room is the Great Hall, covered with beautiful wooden floors. In order to protect the floors, everyone is required to put on Hausschue (slippers) over their regular shoes. I didn't understand at first what was going on, but then saw the large chest and everyone getting on these soft slippers to protect the wood. It's typical to don these slippers in someone's home (usually taking off your own shoes in replacement), but this was definitely the first time I was asked to do something like this at a public monument. So, slippers on (school kids were enjoying the slickness of the floor in these rather large Hausschue), I enjoyed the medieval art all around me. The experience felt very German to me and I was trying to place where I picked up what this sensibility felt like; it seemed earthy and yet rich. The Council Room was filled with antler chandeliers and strong wooden chairs, which enhanced this old German feeling... Anyway, after my visit, I descended the hill and had a Kaffee und Keuchen for 2,22€, which is super cheap for a lovely apple torte and coffee. The sky was overcast and as it has been warm the past few days, I wasn't entirely dressed for any inclement weather. So I decided to head back to Dresden, with the intention of coming back to Meissen sometime this summer and checking out their Stadt Museum.